Itinerary - Argentina & Uruguay: Insider Tango, Carnival & Gaucho Culture

Neighborhood walk
Traditional parrilla dinner
Local peña experience

¡Bienvenidos! Our South American adventure begins as Maggie greets you at Buenos Aires Ezeiza International Airport (EZE). From the moment you arrive, the city's energy begins to call. Together, we'll head into the heart of Buenos Aires and settle into our beautiful home base for the next three nights, the stylish Hotel Mio.

Since our rooms won't be ready just yet, we'll do what porteños do best - eat! Our first stop will be a nearby low-key local spot, where we'll ease into Buenos Aires life with a relaxed lunch. This is your gentle introduction to the flavors and rhythms of the city, setting the tone for the adventures ahead.

Afterward, we'll have time to rest and recharge from the long journey. Once you've settled in, we'll take a leisurely walk through the neighborhood, letting you feel the pulse of Buenos Aires street life - the sidewalk cafés, the tree-lined streets, and the unmistakable porteño energy that makes this city so captivating.

As evening falls, we'll gather for dinner at a traditional parrilla, where you'll experience your first authentic bife de chorizo - this isn't just a steak; it's a rite of passage in Buenos Aires. Over dinner, you'll savor the flavors that fuel this passionate city.

For those who want to dive deeper into the Buenos Aires nightlife, we can continue the evening at a local peña - an intimate venue where folk music, wine, and authentic Argentine culture come alive. For those ready to embrace the night, it's an unforgettable way to feel the true spirit of this incredible city.

By the time you return to the hotel, you'll already feel the rhythm of Buenos Aires under your skin. This first day isn't just arrival - it's your gentle but immersive initiation into a culture where music, food, and connection are a way of life. ¡Salud!

Walking tour with local guide Claudia
San Telmo Market
La Boca Street Food Scene
Tango lesson at Sol's home
Authentic Milonga experience

Today, we'll truly begin to feel like porteños - Buenos Aires locals - as our dear friend Claudia, a passionate storyteller and guide, leads us through the beating heart of this incredible city. We'll start at Plaza de Mayo, where Argentina's history is lived in real time. This is the square where presidents speak to the nation, where the Mothers of the Plaza de Mayo still gather, and where you can feel the pulse of Argentina's struggles and triumphs in every stone.

From here, we'll wander into San Telmo, one of the oldest and most character-filled neighborhoods in Buenos Aires. On Sundays, San Telmo transforms into pure magic—the famous market stretches down Defensa Street in a colorful parade of vintage treasures, handmade crafts, live tango, and the kind of joyful chaos that makes you smile without realizing it. We'll pause for coffee and Argentina's beloved alfajores (¡qué rico!) as we soak in the vibrant atmosphere of this beloved Sunday tradition.

For our late lunch, we'll explore La Boca, the working-class barrio born from immigrant roots. With its brightly painted houses, football fever, and artistic spirit, La Boca tells the story of Italian and Spanish arrivals who made this place their home. We'll taste that immigrant soul through its food: choripán, bondiola, milanesas, and other local favorites served street-side, full of flavor and heart. There's also time for some shopping and exploring before we head back to the hotel earlier in the day.

After some rest and time to recharge, tonight we dive headfirst into tango - the heartbeat of Argentina. Our friend Claudia will introduce us to Sol, a professional tango dancer who opens her actual home (not a studio!) to us. As we sip Argentine wine and share empanadas, cheeses, and cold cuts, Sol will guide us through the basic moves of this beautiful and sensual dance. Don't worry if you've never danced before - here, it's about feeling the music, not perfection. Tranquilo, todo bien.

But our initiation doesn't end there. Together, we'll head to a milonga — an authentic tango gathering where locals come to live the music late into the night. This isn't a tourist show; it's the real thing. We'll have our own reserved table if you prefer to simply watch, but you're also invited to put your new steps into practice on the dance floor. Either way, the passion in the room is unforgettable.

By the time we return to the hotel, you'll understand why Buenos Aires has long been called the "Paris of South America" - but with a warmth, rhythm, and passion that's uniquely its own.

Cemetery tour
Street art discovery
Graffiti workshop
Gelato Crawl

Today we'll see two sides of Buenos Aires that capture the city's soul - its refined elegance and its boundless creativity. We'll begin late morning in Recoleta, home to one of the most famous cemeteries in the world. But this isn't just any cemetery - it's an open-air museum filled with elaborate mausoleums, marble angels, and sculptures that feel alive. As we walk its quiet paths, we'll hear the stories of Argentina's most legendary figures - yes, including Evita Perón - and feel history come alive around us.

From the stately grace of Recoleta, we'll head north into Palermo, the beating heart of Buenos Aires' creative scene. This is where street art bursts across walls, boutique designers show off their flair, and cafés buzz with the unmistakable energy of porteño life. We'll pause for an Argentine lunch before diving into something truly indulgent - our gelato tasting. Argentina is as passionate about gelato as it is about tango, and dulce de leche is practically a religion here. We'll sample and compare different flavors—by the end, you'll understand why locals line up for their daily fix.

In the afternoon, the city's creative pulse takes center stage. We'll step inside the workshop of a local graffiti artist, learning about the history and meaning of Buenos Aires street art. And then we'll have the chance to create our own piece of art, leaving a little of ourselves in the city that inspires so many.

After some rest back at the hotel, we'll gather for an elegant wine tasting experience with a local sommelier in our hotel's beautiful wine bar. This full-on tasting will showcase Argentina's finest wines, perfectly paired with local tapas that highlight the country's culinary artistry. It's a sophisticated way to deepen your appreciation for Argentine wine culture in an intimate, refined setting.

By tonight, you'll have experienced Buenos Aires in full color: elegant, artistic, deliciously sweet, and perfectly paired with world-class wine.

Historic Colonia walk

Today marks an exciting transition as we cross the vast Río de la Plata to discover Uruguay - our smaller but deeply captivating neighbor. The early morning ferry ride gives us sweeping views as Buenos Aires fades behind us and a whole new adventure begins.

At the port, we’ll be welcomed by Julia - Maggie’s mom and a local historian - who will personally introduce us to her beloved country. Our first stop is Colonia del Sacramento, a UNESCO World Heritage site that feels like stepping back in time. With Julia leading the way, we’ll wander cobblestone streets, admire the Portuguese and Spanish colonial architecture, and hear stories of smugglers, sailors, and centuries of history hidden in this charming riverside town.

From Colonia, we’ll continue into the countryside toward Nueva Helvecia, a town founded by Swiss and Italian immigrants in the early 20th century. Here, we’ll be welcomed at the farmhouse and small winery of Mirta’s family, dear friends of Maggie and Julia. For generations, this family has cared for their land and vines with the traditions their ancestors brought from Europe. We’ll share a relaxed lunch outdoors - simple, seasonal, and deeply authentic - surrounded by the peaceful sounds of rural Uruguay. This is the kind of experience that only happens because of the family connections and friendships built over decades.

In the afternoon, we’ll make our way to Montevideo and check into the breathtaking Hotel Carrasco, a grand property that’s not only beautiful but also a national historical monument. After settling in, we’ll take a short stroll for dinner and taste Uruguay’s most beloved street food: the chivito, the national sandwich. Piled high with layers of steak, cheese, egg, ham, and more, it’s a glorious creation that locals are fiercely passionate about - and once you try it, you’ll see why.

Tonight, as you fall asleep in Montevideo, you’ll feel the shift: crossing a river has transported us to an entirely different world, yet one that feels warmly familiar thanks to the people who welcomed us here.

Walking the city with Julia
Andes Museum
Mate preparation ceremony

Today we dive deep into the heart of Montevideo with Julia—Maggie’s mom — who shares her city with the passion only a true montevideana can. We’ll begin in Plaza Independencia, pausing to greet Artigas, Uruguay’s national hero, before walking through the iconic gateway into the Ciudad Vieja (Old City). Family legend says that Maggie’s great-grand-uncle helped place this very door, so as Julia leads the way, you’ll feel history wrapped in personal connection.

Our walk will introduce us to Uruguay’s most beloved artists like Joaquín Torres García and Juan Manuel Blanes, whose works embody the spirit of this nation. We’ll stroll past the Cabildo, the Cathedral, and through lively street markets where daily life unfolds in its unhurried rhythm. Along the way, Julia’s stories make Montevideo’s history feel alive in a way you won’t find in any guidebook.

We’ll then step into the Andes Museum, a place that holds one of the most powerful stories of human resilience: the 1972 plane crash in the Andes. This moving exhibit is a reminder of hope, solidarity, and the strength of the human spirit - values that resonate deeply with Uruguayan culture.

By lunchtime, it’s time for an explosion of flavor at Mercado del Puerto, Montevideo’s iconic food hall. Originally built in the 19th century as a produce market, today it’s a buzzing palace of parrillas where the air is filled with the smell of sizzling meats and the hum of conversation. We’ll join the locals in this joyful chaos, tasting Uruguay’s famous cuts of beef and raising a glass of the classic “medio y medio” (half sparkling wine, half white wine) - the market’s signature drink.

After some time to rest and freshen up back at the hotel, we’ll turn to one of Uruguay’s most cherished traditions: mate. Each of you will receive your very own mate gourd, and together we’ll learn the family recipe for curar (curing) it, following a process passed down in Maggie’s family. This ritual prepares the gourd for use and enriches the flavor with time. Over the course of our journey, you’ll continue the steps, so by the time we reach Paysandú, your mate will be fully seasoned and ready. By then, you won’t just be holding a drink - you’ll be holding a tradition that connects generations.

Tonight, we’ll gather with Maggie’s friends on a terrace for a relaxed evening of picada (Uruguayan tapas), laughter, and local hospitality. Surrounded by good food and good company, we'll end the day not just as visitors, but as honorary montevideanos.

Cooking class with Graciela & Tony (Sorrentinos & Chajá)
Punta del Este exploration
Sunset at Casapueblo

Today brings our first hands-on cooking class as we head to Graciela and Tony’s chacra (countryside home) just outside the coastal town of Piriápolis. These dear friends - Sofi’s parents - will welcome us as family into their world, where Italian immigrant traditions and local Uruguayan ingredients come together in recipes passed down with love.

In their kitchen, we’ll prepare sorrentinos de pescado and sorrentinos de ricotta y nuez, a local pasta created by Italian immigrants in this region. Graciela will guide us through her family recipes, showing us how simple ingredients can transform into something extraordinary. For dessert, we’ll get a sweet taste of what awaits us later in Paysandú: Chajá, the classic sponge cake layered with peaches, meringue, and - of course - dulce de leche. Over this homemade lunch, conversation flows as freely as the local wine, and it feels less like a class and more like a gathering of old friends.

From this peaceful countryside setting, we’ll take a scenic coastal drive to Punta del Este, South America’s most famous beach destination. This chic seaside town attracts visitors from all over the world with its unique blend of sophistication and laid-back beach culture. The afternoon is yours to choose: relax at a seaside parador with sunbeds and drinks, go for a swim, or wander through the fashionable boutiques and cafés that make Punta del Este so stylish.

As the day softens into evening, we’ll head to Casapueblo, the legendary cliffside home and museum created by artist Carlos Páez Vilaró. Its white, organic architecture, seemingly sculpted out of the rock itself, is one of Uruguay’s most iconic images. While most visitors only peek into the museum or stand outside, we’ll have front-row seats to one of the most spectacular sunsets in South America. With drinks and a light apericena in hand, we’ll watch as the sky ignites in impossible shades of pink, gold, and violet, and the white walls of Casapueblo glow in the fading light.

Surrounded by beauty, friends, and the sound of the waves, this moment feels like pure magic. It’s the perfect end to a day that blended learning, tasting, and witnessing the very soul of Uruguay’s coast.

Winery visit and tasting
Carnival with Murgas!

Today offers the perfect blend of relaxation, flavor, and cultural immersion as we explore Uruguay’s emerging wine scene and dive into one of its most cherished traditions. We’ll begin with a visit to a family-run wine estate on the outskirts of Montevideo, where we’ll discover Tannat - Uruguay’s signature grape variety. Bold and full of character, Tannat reflects the spirit of the people who craft it, many of whom descend from Italian immigrants who brought their winemaking traditions across the ocean. We’ll enjoy a tasting followed by a relaxed lunch at the winery, savoring the flavors of the land in the company of those who know it best.

Back in Montevideo, the afternoon is yours to unwind. One of the city’s greatest charms is that the beach is right outside our hotel door. You can take a walk along the rambla (the city’s beloved waterfront promenade), people-watch from a café, or simply relax by the waves. It’s a rare gift - urban sophistication paired with coastal ease. And yes, it’s also the perfect time to start packing for the next chapter of our journey.

For dinner, we’ll step into another Italian-inspired tradition: pizza a caballo (“pizza on horseback”). This playful local invention layers crispy Uruguayan pizza with a topping of farinata-style chickpea bread, creating a flavor combination that locals swear by. It’s quirky, delicious, and a true taste of Montevideo’s immigrant roots.

But the night’s real magic begins when we go behind the scenes of Uruguay’s Carnaval - the longest carnival in the world, stretching over 40 days. We’ll join a local murga, the colorful singing-theater troupes that are the heartbeat of Montevideo’s Carnaval. This is no tourist show: we’ll be there as performers get into costume, watch as their faces are transformed by bold paint, and maybe even join in the chorus for fun. Then we’ll ride with the troupe to the tablado (neighborhood stage), where they’ll perform their sharp, satirical, and deeply musical commentary on the year’s events. The humor may be local, but the energy is universal - it’s impossible not to be swept up in the rhythm.

By the end of the night, you’ll understand that in Uruguay, art isn’t something you observe - it’s something you live. And tonight, you’ll have lived Carnaval as an insider, not a spectator.

Wildlife picnic
Asado with Marcelo
Empanadas de dulce de leche

Today we journey deep into the Pampas - Uruguay’s gaucho country. The gaucho, Uruguay’s cowboy, is rugged, independent, and deeply tied to the land. Here, wide skies stretch endlessly over grasslands, and life moves to the rhythm of tradition. This isn’t just travel - it’s immersion into the very soul of Uruguay. Our route takes us about five hours across the countryside into the interior (we’re going where few visitors venture!), but we’ll break it up with a peaceful pause at the Talice Reserve.

This wildlife reserve is the perfect setting for a relaxing picnic lunch, surrounded by native flora and fauna. It’s our chance to stretch our legs, breathe in the clean country air, and soak in the beauty of the Pampas before continuing on to Paysandú.

Upon arrival, we’ll check into our charming boutique hotel right across from Plaza Constitución. This isn’t about marble lobbies or corporate luxury - it feels like staying at a friend’s home, with cozy armchairs you actually want to sink into, and a garden hammock that just might become your favorite spot in the world.

In the afternoon, we’ll finally prepare the mates we’ve been curing since Montevideo, making them ready to enjoy for the rest of our journey. Then the real heart of our day begins at the chacra of Lulu and Marcelo. Marcelo - Maggie’s uncle - cooks with the passion only a true asador possesses. At his ranch, we’ll learn the sacred art of asado: not just grilling meat, but mastering fire, timing, cuts, and the social ritual that makes this meal the cornerstone of Río de la Plata culture.

This hands-on experience includes everything: lighting the fire (yes, there’s a very specific technique), preparing a variety of cuts and side dishes, and enjoying drinks while playing cards or joining in the lively conversation that always flows around the grill. As the embers glow, Maggie will show us how to make empanadas de dulce de leche - sweet little pockets of the caramel Uruguayans practically treat as a food group. And when someone leans over with a smile and says, “che, ¡qué rico!”, you’ll know you’ve become part of the family.

As evening falls, family and friends will drop by, because that’s what happens at an authentic asado. We’ll taste all the classics of a Uruguayan parrilla in a true family barbecue, where food, laughter, and connection come together. By the end of the night, you’ll understand what travelers quickly learn here - that asado isn’t just cooking, che - it’s a family celebration of land, tradition, and the joy of being together in gaucho country.

Full farm experience
Horseback riding
Chivito cooking
Dulce de leche making

Today we head to El Chambón, the working ranch of Maggie’s brother, Jorgito. This is the real deal - mud, animals, chores, and all the experiences that show what gaucho life is really about.

Jorgito will walk us through his ranch and introduce us to his award-winning sheep, cows, horses, and chickens. And yes, we’ll actually bathe some of the chickens (for real!). We’ll also see what it takes to tend the land and livestock, discovering firsthand why gauchos are not just ranchers, but symbols of independence, grit, and pride in the Pampas. Bring clothes you don’t mind getting dirty, because this is a true working farm where authenticity always trumps polish.

Lunch will be classic Uruguayan fun: we’ll set up chivito stations and make our own version of Uruguay’s beloved national sandwich. Marcelo will fire up the grill while we pile on ingredients until these over-the-top creations are bursting with flavor. To sweeten things further, a friend of the family will teach us how to make dulce de leche from scratch—transforming simple milk and sugar into golden caramel heaven. We’ll even try our hand at turning it into candy and liqueur.

Those who want some “siesta time” can head back to the hotel for a rest. But for anyone ready to embrace their inner gaucho, the afternoon is perfect for saddling up: we’ll ride through the countryside, maybe herd a few cows, and feel the wide Pampas sky stretching endlessly above us. Whether you’re an experienced rider or brand new, this is an unforgettable chance to connect with gaucho tradition.

As the day winds down, Maggie will pick us up for a relaxed evening in Paysandú. We’ll stroll through the town, stop for a little shopping, and then gather for dinner at Lo de Romero, a local favorite. After a day full of farm chores, cooking, riding, and laughter, you’ll fall into bed with dirt under your nails (we advise an evening shower!), a full heart, and a whole new appreciation for life in gaucho country.

Herb-gathering hike
Kayaking
Herbal essence workshop
Candombe drumming

Today we head out to El Cangüé, a countryside estancia where life slows down and nature takes center stage. We’ll begin with a gentle hike through the fields, gathering wild herbs and learning about the native plants Uruguayans have used for generations. Not in the mood to walk? No problem - hop on the back of the tractor for a true rustic ride! Our path leads us into the monte (Uruguay’s version of the woods), where we’ll trade our boots for kayaks and paddle along the quiet river, surrounded by birdsong and the rustle of trees.

By midday, it’s time for one of Uruguay’s greatest joys once again: a traditional asado in the open air. Surrounded by friends, local wine, and the sounds of folklore music, we’ll savor cuts of meat slowly grilled over wood coals, along with fresh salads and the laughter that always accompanies a good countryside meal.

In the afternoon, we’ll use the herbs collected during our hike to create our own herbal oils and essences—a little piece of Uruguay to carry home. Afterward, we’ll return to our hotel for a short rest and time to freshen up before the evening’s festivities.

Tonight, we step into the heartbeat of Uruguay at Bier Garten, a beloved local spot owned by friends of Jorgito. Over a casual picada dinner of cheeses, cured meats, and nibbles, we’ll meet Yoana and the Comparsa Yulelé. This is candombe - the powerful Afro-Uruguayan rhythm created during colonial times, and still today one of the defining sounds of Uruguayan Carnival. We’ll learn to play the tamboril drums, try out some dance steps, and feel the rhythm take over. By the end of the night, don’t be surprised if you’re drumming, laughing, and moving like you’ve been part of a comparsa all along.

You’ll fall asleep with the rhythms of candombe still echoing in your heart, carrying with you a deeper understanding of the African roots that helped shape Uruguayan culture.

Empanadas cooking with Gladys
Lamb roasting ceremony
Country Fiesta

Our day brings us back to El Chambón, Jorgito’s ranch, for what promises to be an emotional and delicious celebration of everything we’ve shared together. We’ll begin in the kitchen with Gladys, who will teach us her countryside recipe for empanadas unlike any you’ve ever tried before. Made with yeast, these empanadas are big, fluffy, and deep-fried in lard until golden perfection. We’ll practice the repulgue - the traditional fold that seals them shut - while swapping stories and laughter. Simple, humble, and utterly addictive, these empanadas are symbols of the friendships and traditions we’ve embraced during our time here.

After enjoying our empanadas for lunch, we’ll return to the hotel for some time to freshen up, and prepare for the incredible evening ahead. For those who missed it earlier, there’s also another chance to go horseback riding or lend a hand with the evening’s preparations.

As the sun begins to lower, Jorgito will light the great fire for cordero a la cruz - lamb slowly roasted on an iron cross by the flames, a tradition that is equal parts ceremony and cuisine. Tonight is not just dinner - Paysandú will have become like a second home already, so it’s our gran fiesta de despedida, our big farewell celebration from Paysandú. Friends and family will gather, music will play, and the aroma of roasting lamb will fill the air as we raise a glass to the unforgettable journey we’ve shared.

Expect dancing, singing, and storytelling, because no Uruguayan celebration is complete without them. Some of us may get a little emotional as we realize our adventure is nearing its end, but tonight is about joy, gratitude, and connection. Under the stars, with the sounds of the Pampas around us, we’ll share a feast that marks the beginning of lifelong memories and friendships.

Alfajores making with Julia

Our final day in Uruguay begins with a sweet farewell. After breakfast, we’ll start making our way back toward the ferry, but not before one last delicious experience. In the town of Trinidad, we’ll stop at Julia’s kitchen, where she has built her own artisanal alfajores business. She’ll welcome us into her world of alfajores de maicena and alfajores tipo Mar del Plata, teaching us the secrets behind these beloved treats that are so much more than simple cookies. Soft, delicate, and filled with dulce de leche, they’re edible expressions of comfort and tradition. And today, we’ll make our own to take home... if they last that long, che!

We’ll enjoy a relaxed lunch featuring products from local small producers, celebrating the community of artisans who are at the heart of Uruguay’s culinary identity. And of course, dessert is alfajores - one that will make you rethink everything you thought you knew about these iconic sweets. ¡Qué rico!

From there, we’ll travel back to Colonia del Sacramento to board the ferry for our return across the Río de la Plata. As Uruguay’s coastline fades into the horizon, you’ll have time to reflect on the extraordinary days we’ve spent together: dancing tango, cooking with locals, sipping Tannat, curing mate gourds, living like gauchos, and celebrating in ways few travelers ever get to experience.

Back in Buenos Aires, we’ll check into our hotel and freshen up before gathering for one final dinner at a traditional parrilla. It’s only fitting to close our adventure with Argentina’s iconic bife de chorizo, raising a glass to the memories we’ve created and the bonds we’ve forged.

Tonight, you’ll sleep once more in Buenos Aires, but your heart will carry the rhythm of tango, the taste of dulce de leche, the beat of the murga and candombe, and the spirit of the Pampas forever.

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And just like that, our incredible journey through Argentina and Uruguay comes to an end. After breakfast, we’ll provide your transfer to Buenos Aires Ezeiza International Airport (EZE), making sure everything runs tranquilo, todo bien. There’s always a quiet sadness when a great adventure concludes, but there’s also joy in knowing the memories will stay with you forever.

You’re not leaving the same person you were when you arrived. You’ve learned to make empanadas and alfajores, felt the passion of tango and the rhythm of candombe, understood the sacred ritual of asado and the art of mate, experienced life on a working ranch, and discovered that the best kind of travel happens when you’re welcomed not as a tourist, but as family.

As you board your flight home, remember: this isn’t goodbye - it’s hasta luego, che. The memories of dancing tango in Buenos Aires, cooking in Paysandú, watching sunsets in Casapueblo, and laughing with new friends will stay with you long after you’ve unpacked your bags.

And who knows? Maybe you’ll be back for another visit to the family. Because once South America gets into your blood, it never really leaves. If you’d like to keep exploring, we can help you arrange extensions to Mendoza’s wine country, Iguazú Falls, or Patagonia’s dramatic landscapes.

¡Chau y buen viaje! (Bye, safe travels!)